A Long Drive to Jaisalmer. What a day.

jaisalmer

When I woke up this morning my plan for the day was to catch up on all my blog posts. The drive was going to be a long one. I am writing about events that happened a couple of days ago in present tense. It is easier to do that when events happened yesterday. The real problem with getting behind on my blog posts is that I forget some of the things I want to talk about. Well that didn’t happen, I mean the catching up part. The drive was too good to miss. In addition to photos and thoughts Jim and I have been recording sounds and videos to share. Unfortunately until the hotel/homestay we are at in Jaislamer, the wifi hasn’t been good enough to send anything like that. I will try to get a few things like that off today as well.

Udaipur is toward the bottom, the South of Rajasthan. Jaisalmer is in the middle as far as north and south go but it is on the West side. In fact Jaisalmer is as close to Pakistan as Jim and I are likely to ever get.

Back to the drive… We stayed in the City Palace Complex in Udaipur. This was like a quiet oasis in the middle of a bustling city. It really was a fun and unique experience. We left the Shiv Niwas and very quickly were thrust into the hustling bustling city. So after we turned off into narrow country roads with villages separated by farmland. I love looking at the towns. Each one is a little different.

There are miles of mustard being grown. At first I thought it was fields filled with weeds. Many of these photos were taken speeding along in our car, sorry if the quality suffered.

I asked Sohdi about the road ahead and he told me it was a one lane road. I thought he meant a 2-laned road with traffic going in both directions. You know, that it had been lost in translation. But no, it was a 1-laned steep and windy mountainous road.

It was verdant and lovely. Here is a view of some farmland.

This shot was hard to get. As we were driving I noticed that there were regular water pumps on the sides of the roads. When we saw them there were almost always women and/or children at them collecting water.

As you can see it would be really hard if you were afraid of monkeys in Rajasthan, India.

We stopped at a Jain Temple in Ranakur. I learned a lot about the Jain faith the next day, I will tell you about it in that post. We were allowed to look at the outside of the temple complex, but not go inside. There are only certain hours people who are not of the Jain faith can go inside their temples.

So we stayed outside with the monkeys.

I hope you find it easy to follow along when I post photos of signs. It is the best way I have found to pass along the information at sites where they have them.

This site is remote. It captures the imagination to have such an impressive temple at this location.

A group of men, one with a gun who is also holding a belt guarding an entrance at the temple, this also captures the imagination.

I wonder what Jains do about big beehives like this one on the side of their temple? We left with more questions than answers.

The turbans are getting bigger the farther Northwest we go. They are also put on in a more haphazard way for the most part. Our driver Sodhi is Sikh. Perhaps I am just so used to sitting behind his nice orderly turban. Sikh men as they call themselves put their turbans on so nicely and neatly it is impressive.

Women are more likely to have their faces covered in rural villages and towns. Not the covered faces but as far as more conservative dress, the few times I was not dressed conservatively, I felt self-conscious.

I, of course, look at this and wonder about spinal damage to the neck. It is more common to see women carrying things this way than it is men. Sometimes the women even have their faces covered. I would be so worried about tripping and hurting myself.

The landscape went from verdant and mountainous to deserts, similar to what we have in Bridgeport, Ca. When that happened goats became more plentiful. We started to see fewer monkeys and more peacocks and camels.

Everywhere we went in Rajasthan they were fixing the highway up. Sodhi told us it would all be finished in no less than 2 years.

These highway improvement projects are important in a country where most goods are transported in trucks. When a driver wants to pass here they honk to let the car they are passing know they are being passed. It makes for a lot of honking. Drivers in India need to be highly skilled. There are animals, vehicles, and people all over the place everywhere you go crossing roads, driving different speeds, just doing all sorts of things creating lots of unexpected situations you have to be careful of.

All this trucking creates a highly mobile group within the society. I have read that truck drivers in India are in a high risk group for HIV transmission, and that their mobility compounds the problem for all involved.

As we got close to Jaisalmer, which is close to the border with Pakistan, we started to see more and more Army trucks on the road. There is a large Army base just outside of Jaisalmer. Sodhi is from Punjab, close to Pakistan. He told us it is awful in Pakistan, that the government is very corrupt there. I asked him about corruption in the government in India. He said it was bad in India too, but not as bad as it is in Pakistan. He pointed to a barbed wire fence with four strands of barbed wire across it and told us that is what was across the area near his home, separating the two countries, India and Pakistan. I asked him if the people were different in customs, or dress, speaking, or religion. He told me they were all, “same, same.” He said it was better to be from India though, even though the people of the United States helped Pakistan more. I told him our government was more afraid of terrorism from Pakistan than from India. He agreed the threat was from Pakistan.

A couple of times on the drive we stopped for a while for trains to cross. They are very cautious and give lots of time for trains to get to the crossings, which is probably a good idea with the cow and dog wanderings/moseyings as they are. All the vehicles turn off their motors and people get out. A few of us went up to take photos, much to the amusement of the locals.

I was the only woman who walked up to the stop and I did so unaccompanied. I got lots of stares. Everyone was friendly, just curious.

We arrived at our hotel/homestay in Jaisalmer at dinner time. I really appreciate someone with an attention to detail, that is what we found at the 1st Gate Homestay. It has a restaurant at it called Fusion which had Italian and Indian cuisine. Oh yes and it has a PUG!!!!

Here is Sean sitting in the downstairs restaurant with one of the owners, Minoch, and his dog Ting Tong, TT. She is about the same size and age as Sean’s dog Jezabel. Minoch heard Sean’s cough and had a special tea made for him. It really helped. I ordered Italian food for Sean and went up to the upstairs restaurant with Jim.

This is the view from the rooftop restaurant at 1st Gate. I ordered for Jim, salad and pasta with an arrabiatta sauce. He had never had that sauce before. He loved it, and now has a new favorite Italian dish.

 There I am with the fort behind me.

It gets cold in the desert at night. TT got her jacket on so she could come and sit at the entrance to the kitchen.

Check out yesterdays blog post here and the next post here.

Read about our last day in India here.





Christmas in India

Christmas in India

Merry Christmas from Udaipur India! We started Christmas at 1 a.m., when we got to our room from the dinner. We all had two presents to open. Just little things, one from each of us to the other. Our Christmas presents to each other have been this trip and this experience. It has been special. We love India and the people who live in it. As far as the commercialization of the season, I will most likely get caught up in it next year. It is hard not to. But it got us thinking. I have not missed a single thing this entire trip. I have not missed any place or food item either. My friends and family, however, I have not been homesick, but I look forward to seeing all of them. Love to you all, and Merry Christmas.

We got going about 10. Our driver, Sohdi, thought we should do a little sight-seeing today. We were glad he did.

We started at the classic car museum.

I won’t bore you with more. Car buff that I am, not. If you want to see more ask Sean for the photos He took scads. I enjoyed it. Don’t get me wrong. What I enjoyed though was listening to Jim and Sean talk about the various cars.

The Sas Bahu Temple was one of our favorite temples we have seen on our entire trip. We had to backtrack and leave Udiapur to Kalaishburi to see it, then we had to go through a wetlands which were pristine. There were only a few people there too. Its detailed carvings were very well preserved. This temple is dedicated to wives and mother-in-laws.

Right next to the temple were 2 women farming wheat in a field with snowy egrets looking on.

This was our first view of the temple complex. All the marble in the area means the temple and its carvings are made of them and therefore last a long time with minimal erosion.

The temple is right on the water. The setting was idyllic.

Literally hundreds of photos later for all 3 of us, we were ready to go. Next stop was the gardens. It was very so-so. I only recommend stopping there if you love old fountains or have extra time.

After a short walk through the gardens, we went to the Monsoon Palace. This Palace is high up on a hill. It is a perfect location for avoiding flooding during torrential rains. You would want to be at the Palace before the rains struck however. I would not want to be on the road up to it during a torrential rain storm.

You get to the palace through the wildlife sanctuary. There seems to be more focus here on preserving the wildlife in this area of Rajasthan, perhaps because the Maharajah still has a presence here.

Here is the palace on the hill. It is not as well preserved as the other palaces in this area.

Have you thought about all the info in English? Well I have. It rocks. Thank you India. It was neat to find all this information inside the Monsoon Palace.

We didn’t actually see any of these live. We did see a weasel though.

A view up at the Monsoon Palace.

A view out of the Monsoon Palace. The haze from a light fog obscures how steep and far down the valley goes.

Here is the Lake Palace at night. It is now a very exclusive hotel that can only be reached by boat and can only be bisited if you are a guest there.

Jim and I walked around a bit in the evening. We went back to the room and ordered room service with Sean because he did not want to go out. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, from the three of us!

Check out last nights blog here.





Christmas Eve, Udaipur, post 2 of 2, the dinner

Christmas

When we checked into the hotel they told us we had to pay for Christmas Eve dinner even if we did not plan on attending. So of course we decided we might as well attend it since we had already paid for it. After watching the hotel staff spend 2 days setting up we probably would have wanted to attend anyway.

If I could even get close to correctly putting the saree on, I planned on wearing it.

I did it all by myself! Thank you, thank you, thank you to all the dear ladies of Delhi who taught me how to do this. It isn’t perfect but it was close enough for me to wear. I am planning on wearing it on New Year’s Eve as well.

Isn’t that a great gingerbread house. It smelled delicious. The evening was magical. The decorations and food were superb.

They launched 2 ice statues into the pool. This pool is where James Bond seduces a woman in a scene from Octopussy.

We started talking to this couple, Jill and Richard, from Australia. They are traveling the world for 2 years living out of a backpack. They are blogging about it, if you want to check their story out their blog address is, midlifeadventure.com. I haven’t checked it out yet, but I plan to when I get the time. It has been a busy couple of days.

I won’t bore you with many more photos of this because on 12/28 I have access to all the photos taken this night. The ones taken by the professional photographer. The Shiv Niwas also gave us a bottle of wine, Christmas cakes, and a memory book as Christmas presents.

On the way out the door they were making beetle leaf beetle juice rolls, stuffed with candied colored pumpkin. It tasted strange but not terrible.

Here are all the digestives to try. I tried all of them, of course. I should have taken notes, but… I didn’t. I was too busy talking to people who thought it was amusing that I would try at least 1 of everything. They run the gamut for salty to sweet to bitter. There is yummy and not at all yummy! Salted ginger for example is less good than a ginger lover like me would guess. My favorite was the tamarind.

The attention to detail everywhere you looked, tasted, or drank was really impressive. Which is what happens when the maharajah, the king, is at the party. I didn’t realize it until he left with his family. I will share a better photo on the 28th.

I did recognize Santa though.

We were the last to leave of course.

Check out part of of this post here and check out yesterdays post here.





Christmas Eve, Udaipur, posts 1 of 2

Palace

As Christmas drew near it became more and more strange to be away. I have always loved the holidays starting with Halloween and ending with New Year’s Day. It is my favorite time of year. It was certainly a different holiday season this year. The negative is, I really miss my friends and family. The positive is, I will never look at the crass commercialization that Christmas has become in the United States the same again. I have been finding it increasingly depressing the way in which my culture seems to worship things over relationships and events over warm gatherings. Anyway, so here we are in India away from the commercialization of Christmas, yes, but also away from all the warm gatherings with our friends and family.

Christmas Eve started with an announcement from Sean that he was running out of socks and underwear. It is one of the things you have to deal with when you are away for 4 weeks. Sometimes you send the wash out, and other times you do it yourself.

As we were leaving for the day, one of the people who worked at the hotel asked if we wanted to see the Honeymoon Suite, which was the room next to ours.

This is the residence of the Maharajah, the present king of Udaipur, who is king in name only. There are no longer any rights of rule that come with the title.

This is a Hindu Temple just outside the City Palace Complex. It is a very old Hindu Temple. The person whose back you can see is ringing a bell. It was loud inside the temple. Twice a day it rings a call to worship.

This is looking down the steps of the temple into the town of Udaipur. When you walk out the back side of the City Palace Complex, you walk into a district full of small shops selling touristy items. The prices here are better than those in Jaipur.

We are eating at a special Christmas Eve Dinner. Here they are setting up for it.

 We decided to spend the morning touring the City Palace, which is at one end of the City Palace Complex. They started building the Palace in 1559. The rulers were from the Sun Dynasty of India, and they worshipped the sun. Do you see the sun on the wall at about 1:00? That sun could be worshipped to when the sun wasn’t shining.During the monsoon season, when the sun does not shine the court including the ruling family would worship this sun. There is also a sun on the inside of the Palace for the ruling family to worship. You will see it toward the end.

This is a glass mosaic. We saw one at the Amber Palace, but then I didn’t know the name.

This Hindu Temple is dedicated to the priest who chose this site as the best site to build the Palace.

This is the Coronation Courtyard. In 1947 all the kings of India lost their power when India became a democracy. The photo is of the throne the king would sit on. Then he would fill a pool up with silver pieces and hand them out to the citizens.

The English brought angels to India. Indian faiths do not have angels in any of them.

This is a shot of the Lake Palace Hotel from our hotel room. This hotel used to be the King’s Summer Palace. The Palace we are touring is the Winter Palace. Tomorrow we will go up to the Monsoon Palace. The Monsoon Palace is high up on a very tall hill. The monsoon season goes from the end of June to the middle of October. They are very important here in the city of lakes, because that is where all the water for the lakes comes from. In 2007, 1995, and 1972 there was no rain, no monsoons, and the lakes dried up. When this happens everyone becomes very worried about the drought.

In 2007 when the lakes dried up the last 2 wild crocodiles are captured and put into the local zoo. This painting is from a time before that obviously. I don’t have a good photo of the Monsoon Palace from here because it has been hazy for most of our stay everywhere we have gone in India. This is common in this part of India in the winter. The weather has been great though.

The hoops in the wall and floor are to secure bamboo poles to so work can be done and also to hang curtains for ladies to stay behind. The ladies could not hang out with the men. They observed the goings on behind curtained enclosures.

Here was a favorite hang out spot for the king, his friends, and his family.

I thought these were to let breezes in. They are privacy screens for ladies to use so they will not be seen.

 

He probably stayed home and hung out here. Here is the chair though.

This was the King’s favorite bedroom. Called the kinky bedroom because of all the mirrors.

There has been lots of deforestation around the lakes to build new hotels. Now there are regulations protecting the existing forests.

There are 16 secret entryways and passageways. This is one of them.

These are the ladies’ quarters.

This is a kerosene fan in the ladies’ quarters.

The King would sit and watch the ladies play games. Two favorite games were Chosar, a game like chess, and Chopad, a game like Parcheesi.

The game Chopad is 5,500 years old. It was written about in the famous epic, Mahabharata. When meeting or gathering, everyone would sit together on the floor.

At 17, the last true king got TB in his spine; he became paralyzed and couldn’t have any children, so he adopted his cousin’s brother’s son. Now there is no official king. The descendants are just a very wealthy Indian family.

Isn’t it beautiful workmanship? 

Here is the indoor sun that the royal family worshiped to.

There are more than 80,000 glass pieces making up the peacock.

The royal family could also sit in the dining room and worship the sun across the courtyard if they were at the palace when a monsoon struck.

60% of households in India still use this traditional style kitchen. Check out the churning stick to use with string to make lassi.

This was the bedroom of the last king’s third wife. Her name was Gulabkunwarji.

This is the cradle where she worshiped Krishna. She would put a statue of Krishna in the cradle every day

This vat was filled with ghee, butter, and oil and carried by elephants to feed the poor.

This is a fancy pigeon feeder.

These spikes were used to protect the gate from elephants ridden by members of invading armies. Now they are just pigeon perches.

This is where people would mount elephants.

This is a view down to where elephants would trunk wrestle each other. There would be an elephant on either side of this wall. The first elephants to pull the other elephants into the wall wins.

This painting shows it well.

Next I had a pedicure and foot massage. The woman who gave me the pedicure is 22. Her name is Arti. Her parents will chose a spouse for her next year. She will keep working or not depending on what her husband’s family wants her to do.

As I was lying there getting a foot massage I thought of my grandmother, Mommom. I come from a line of women who love to have their feet massaged. It is interesting how some people cannot stand to have their feet touched and for others people it is the best spot of all to have massaged. I spent a very pleasant hour thinking about my grandmother.

They had a very limited selection of nail polish colors, and the pedicure was done lying down. It was a good one though.

Next I went back to the room and hung out with Sean and Jim for a while. I can’t wait for tonight. They have been decorating for it since we got here. This is how they get snow on theirs trees in Udaipur.

Check out yesterdays post here and part two of this post here.





Driving from Jaipur to Udaipur, a Stay in a Palace

Udaipur

We got on the road about 8:30 this morning. Once we were out of the town of Jaipur, we were in a rural farming community. We drove by 5 carts with men standing up driving in them with camels pulling the carts. I didn’t get a good photo, maaf kijeeyay – everyone always smiles big in India when I say that, which basically means excuse me. Actually when I say anything in Hindi people become very excited, except nahee – that is the one word every foreigner learns, so it is not special to Indians.

Every few miles we passed a temple. There are lots of temples to lots of different gods, because there are so many gods, in this diverse polytheistic country. There is a real benefit to a polytheistic society where everyone gets to choose their favorite god, and all can have a different favorite, with some people even having more than one favorite over the course of their life. The benefit is tolerance. India has some of the most faithful people in the most faith-based culture I have ever experienced. Perhaps this strong polytheistic faith that respects differences is the reason for this religiously tolerant culture. I have found it fascinating to observe.

These are just a series of photos I took as we whizzed by. I love the colors. Here there is more pink. In Jaipur the women seemed to favor orange clothes.

Do you see the women at about 9 o’clock? They are farming in sarees. I had a hard time getting a photo of this happening. Several times I saw women out in the fields farming in colorful sarees.

There I am in the mirror and there two women are with their faces covered. I was told this is becoming less common, but traditionally this is something married women do when out in public, especially if their father-in-law is around.

We passed through a few small towns, then it was town after town with humongous chunks of marble. There is a lot of marble with the occasional pieces of granite too. I will not bore you too much. I could have over an hour’s worth of film showing this. There were trucks broken down because of carrying the heavy loads. We were told the factory owners are well-off, but the factory workers are poor.

Soon after arriving and negotiating traffic in Udaipur we drove by a mosque that was just letting out. I am posting this photo because of the woman’s outfit. Her face was not covered. Everywhere we have gone in Udaipur Muslim women were wearing this style outfit. The colors and patterns are different though. Their entire dress down to the ground is the same as the women’s capelet – my made-up name for it.

By the time we booked a place in Udaipur there were only two choices, expensive or so cheap (6$) we weren’t willing to risk it. Jim chose the least expensive of the expensive places. When Jim told me we were staying at the Shiv Niwas Palace, I had no idea it was really going to be a palace!

That Palace up ahead is where we stayed. After driving through a guarded gate, we were out of the melee of the town of Udaipur and into a private area called the City Palace Complex. I really wish I wrote fiction instead of nonfiction, so I could use the details of this place in a novel.

Here is Jim in our private courtyard.

Jim took this shot from the courtyard on our balcony.

The view from our room.

There were flocks of green parrots flying around in Udaipur. Here are two. The rest of the flock flew away when I approached.

This is a view of Udaipur. Udaipur used to be forested. Then it was rapidly deforested. Now there are restrictions to limit the rate of deforestation.

When we booked here, it was mandatory that we also attend the Christmas Eve party. Here is a tree being decorated for the party.

We came out into the courtyard of our hotel and there was a band playing bagpipes. Jim dislikes bagpipes, and I like them. They remind me of growing up on Long Island. There used to be monkey grinders in New York City when I grew up too. I suppose I would no longer like those though because I grew up to be a bleeding heart for animals, and you know, because of the “monkey incident”.

Behind the gate that is the king’s royal residence.

Up some stairs and this is a view from another side into the King’s residence.

Here is a Royal Guard. I like the uniform, don’t you?

Then we went down to walk along Lake Pichola.

Here is a view back toward our hotel and other places. Our suite is at the close end on the corner on the top floor obscured by the tree. Are you getting bored with these photos? Sean, in particular, felt conflicted staying in a place like this after our volunteering work. The poverty we have seen has made us take a hard look at consumerism and what really makes people happy. I told Sean to value happiness and take what the world throws at you. It isn’t always this luxurious. It doesn’t always look like a fairy tale castle.

Merry Christmas! I hope your New Year is a happy one.

Ganesh is the God of Luck. I have been so lucky in my life. No wonder Ganesh is my favorite. I am wishing good luck for all of you and for the people of India. This generous, boisterous, lovely country has made us feel so very welcome.

Jim and I went out to eat and Sean had room service. Here is a painting of the current King.

Musicians at dinner.

Check out yesterdays post here and here.





Jaipur day 2, post 2 of 2, the Monkey Temple

Monkey Temple

Next stop monkey temple. My fear of monkeys lasted one day. It went from fear to healthy respect. If you do not have a serious respect for monkeys, I know you have never encountered one outside of a caged enclosure. A very healthy respect 🙂

The Lake Palace was on the way to the Monkey Temple. This is a private residence. The palace was built, and then the lake was made around it. All around the lake there are people begging and hawking trinkets. A real example of the haves and have nots.

This man is tying down the eggs to deliver them.

There were tent cities just outside a couple of what looked like industrial complexes and hospitals.

The Monkey Temple is outside of Jaipur just above this small town.

We bought peanuts to feed the monkeys and this cow started to follow me around. Cows like peanut too. We have seen many cows on the streets of Jaipur eating newspaper. I guess a ruminant can digest newspaper, I don’t think it would be optimal nutrition though.

The Monkey Temple consists of a series of buildings that form a complex that runs up valley to the top of one of the high hills overlooking Jaipur.

One of the monks at the Monkey Temple gave us bracelets, oil on our wrists, and a dot on our forehead. The name of the monkey god is Hanumana.

Sean and Vikas with the ugliest Ganesh I have ever seen. Vikas was our guide. He told me he works here and goes to school. He is earning money to pay for his school fees. He wants to be a doctor one day. His English was really good.

Today the Monkey Temple seems to be mainly a tourist destination. A very cool one I might add. It must have been something to see 100 or even 50 years ago when it was bustling with monks and used for its intended purpose.

Another cobra encounter, then Vikas corrected what we had been told earlier and said not 6 months, they keep the snakes for 6 years. Very large sigh! Now I am done with snake handling too. Done handling snakes, gone are my dreams of riding an elephants, terrified of monkeys …

Up, up, up to the monkey temple. I am not sure what the barbed wire is for.

At the top there was a smiling monk.

The monkeys loved Vikas. I wouldn’t have done this without him. Vikas’ favorite singer is Honey Singh. I will have to look her up.

You can see how nervous I am.

With Vikas help, and some very kind monkeys, I conquered my fear.

Really conquered my fear! There is my cow BFF behind me

Which is good, because WOW that’s a lot of monkeys. They were everywhere we looked.

Then Sean decided to conquer his fear of monkeys.

It tickles your neck to have a monkey sit on it.

This is the second time today we hiked all the way up to have a nice view of Jaipur. This part of Jaipur reminds me of the clothes women wear here in India, a mixture of bright colors making everything seem more vibrant and alive. For me they represent the joy I find in most of the Indian people we have met.

A crocodile at the top of the monkey temple. Why there is a crocodile fountain head at the top of the Monkey Temple, who knows.

If you ever come to the Monkey Temple ask for Vikas. He was really a great guide, and made the experience much better. He is also the first Indian I have heard complain about littering and water pollution. He thinks it is awful that his country men just drop their trash of the ground.

The monks and monkeys go in here and the monks smoke pot, and I guess the monkeys do too through second-hand smoke.

We are all tired. Time to go back to the Ikaki Niwas and take a nap. Tomorrow we leave for Udaipur, the City of Lakes.

Check out our tour of the Amber Palace here and yesterdays post here.





Jaipur day 2, Amber Palace post 1 of 2

Today was our day to hike. We didn’t know it when we woke up, but by the time the day was over we had hiked all over the place, and we had conquered some fears. We have been very sedentary for us.

Here are the shop names I was telling you about yesterday. This is the old part of Jaipur.

Another hazy day. This is the Amber Palace from across the lake.

To the left of the Amber Palace is Jaigarh Fort. There is a wall you can walk on that connects the two. The distance is 1 1/2 kilometers.

As we were standing there along came a snake charmer.

“Do we want to charm that snake?” he asked. Well at least one of us did.

And touch it, kind of – sort of. Honestly, I was too bothered by the sweaty turban to care about the venomous snake I was touching! LOL, what can I say, we all have our idiosyncrasies, and one of mine is getting other people’s sweat on me, Yuch.

Here he is trying to convince me to wrap it around my neck. I drew the line at that.

The night before we went to the Amber Palace we ate dinner with a South African couple, Charles and Carmine. We got to talking about the life of these elephants. Up until this time Sean and I had every intention of riding elephants into the Palace. Charles had observed these elephants and had also observed elephants in the wild in South Africa. He thought the elephants trekking up to the Amber Palace looked dead in the eyes. There went my dream of riding an elephant up to the Amber Palace. It is not easy being a bleeding heart when it comes to animals. There are all sorts of moral dilemmas to deal with. The snake for instance, I was told the snake had something done so it could not bite for 6 months. After 6 months it would be released back into the wild, and the handler would get another snake. One problem is my Hindi is extremely limited and many of the people I am asking questions to have limited English. My guess is the story of what happens to the snake is not nearly as happy as that, and that is not that great. Charles was right too, the elephants looked unhappy.

At the Amber Palace we saw crumbling ruins of old parts of the palace in areas where people were living in more modern buildings.

This was taken from the wall of the Amber Palace. The Palace itself is not crumbling away, it was very nice to visit. These Palaces are more complexes than just Palaces. They are different than European Castles. The rooms are smaller in the Palaces we have seen in India, and there are many more of them. There are a lot of separate apartments, probably to accommodate all the family groups and members living together plus all their servants. There are lots of open Courtyards and places to observe the countryside.

Many of the walls, inside and out, have decorative painting on them.

This is the garden at the Amber Palace.

The bathrooms and toilets were interesting

This is a deep bath with 4 seats. There was hot and cold running water coming into here. There was a setup that created steam which could also be pumped into the baths.

These were used as urinals.

Here is a view from above. I am not sure how this works. You defecate in the squares, but what is the pot for? Maybe it had water and a ladle in it to use to wash the feces down.

Jaigarh Fort, above, is old and beautiful. It seems that they are slowly restoring the Palace. One day these walls will be pinkish like the front part. Inside the doors there are warrens of rooms.

Here is a restored or maybe just better preserved part. Jim and I like the older, less restored parts just as much. There were bits of glass and semi precious gems inlaid into the walls here

Many of the rooms open up to small rooms on the outside that have this stonework surrounding them. This extends from floor to ceiling without a break.

Here is a view from one of these outer alcove area, looking into another alcove area. Do you see the beehive at 11 o’ clock.

This gives you some idea about what it is like inside looking out into a courtyard. It is room after room of this.

We are deciding if we want to hike up to Jairgarh Fort, behind us in the distance. We all dressed a bit warmly for the temperature. It was chilly this morning.

One final photo of the Amber Palace before descending into the tunnels. Many of the palaces and forts of India were built with extensive tunnel systems to hide the movement of people, including troops.

We came up out of the underground tunnel to this corridor. It is still protected here because these are the tops of hills.

This is a photo of the pathways looking down from the side of Jaigarh fort. The walled walking path is the one we came up into when we exited the tunnel.

Check out the monkey jumping. There were monkeys everywhere. I decided to get over some of my fear. As my dad would say, I got back on that horse and rode it. I tossed cashews to the monkeys after we passed.

On our way to Jaigragh Fort we came to a fork in the path. We could take a broad path with no stairs up or we could walk up all these stairs. We immediately chose this path.

We met some boys from Mumbai on the way up.

The stairs took us to a dead end. We could not get into the fort without going back down and up the other path. We actually liked this better. We did not realize there were these paths up to the outside of the fort towers. We love castles, forts, and palaces. I read a lot of history, and I like to stand in the old places and imagine what might have been and what it was like. I am not sure what these paths are for. as we walked don, we discussed the possibilities that occurred to us, but they were all guesses. This path was built for a purpose, what it was… leaves so much to the imagination. I loved it! Any time I explore something new like this it gives me more to think about.

We are headed down. I carry a limited number of shoes with me on trips like this, but still, flip flops were not ideal today.

This is the front side of the Amber palace. One of those meshed rooms above is where I took the photo of the beehive.

We are leaving through one of the elephant gates. The elephants only work in the morning. I hope their afternoons are filled with joyous companionship.

This is a view looking back at the Palace

This is a view in the other direction. It was taken at a weird angle so you could follow the wall along the ridge line. Do you see it? As I was leaving I thought this palace and the town that surrounded it reminded me of the book, Inkheart, by Cornelia Funke. It was a really good book.

These building are right outside the palace. That is the palace in the background.

Now we go to the Monkey Temple. But Sodi, I don’t want to go to the Monkey Temple… Unfortunately I don’t know how to tell our driver this in Hindi.

Check out yesterdays post here and read about the history of The Amber Palace here.





Jaipur day 1

Jaipur

Jim and I like to stay in B&Bs when we travel. In India we are staying in B&Bs where possible. They are called homestays here. We waited a bit late to start booking this leg of our trip, so we were not able to get a room in a homestay everywhere we are traveling to, but we did manage to get a room in a great homestay in Jaipur. Actually it started to become stressful to book our plans as late as we did. We could not get a train or a plane except for one leg of our journey around India. We hired a driver who is driving us everywhere. It is inexpensive by our standards, and oh so very convenient.

This is looking out from the Ikaki Niwas, Jaipur, the homestay we are staying at. Staying in a homestay is sort of like staying in someone’s house. We have only stayed in 2 in India, but they have been nice houses, the food and service superb, and they are quite a bit less expensive than hotels.

These are photos of the Ikaki Niwas.

It is foggy here, which is why the photos are hazy.

India is a tea drinking culture. The tea has been great. Until today the coffee had been Nescafé. This is the best coffee of the trip. Jim was delighted.

As we were driving to the Ikaki Niwas when we first got to Jaipur, it was through a slum area for the part of the approach. Jim said, “What was this place rated on TripAdvisor?” Everything was fine once we got here though. One thing we really like about B&Bs and now homestays is talking to other guests at meals. We met a couple from South Africa who are riding a motorcycle through India. You have no idea how insane that sounds to me after driving around India for over 2 weeks. I could not handle it! Driving here is nuts.

There were animals everywhere we drove in Jaipur. Today either in or on the road mingling with traffic we saw cows, pigs, dogs,  donkeys, camels, goats, horses, birds, and monkeys. Here is the drive through Jaipur.

Do you see the monkeys?

There were monkeys scrambling all over this building. These photos are from when I loved monkeys.

This is a busy street between two monuments, the Observatory and the City Palace.

Do you see the cow starting to cross the street?

When Sean saw this cow cross the street he said, “That right there sums India up for me.” You have this busy street filled with people and cars with a cow wandering around, and the cow is given the same priority and status as anyone or thing else. Everyone just zips crazily around the cow.

We are in the state of Rajasthan. When we were deciding what to do for our last two weeks we wanted to experience some of the differences that make up India. The problem with that is you can only spend so much time on the road and experience anything but driving. We are spending 3 nights in Jaipur, 3 nights in Udaipur, 3 nights in Jaisalmer, and 1 night in Jodhpur. Our last 2 nights we will spend back in Delhi.

The sights of Jaipur

 There are more animals on the road in Jaipur than there are in Delhi, and the roads are more narrow. This makes for slower driving, and more congestion. There is no way other than experiencing it to really get a handle on what it is like to be on the road in India.

Our first sightseeing in Jaipur was to the City Palace.

The City Palace is in the center of the city of Jaipur. It is surrounded by little tiny bodega type shops. Many of the shops only have their name written in Hindi letters. Jaipur seems less well-to-do and less fixed up than Delhi, and much more touristy. Jaipur is surrounded by big hills with forts on many of the hill tops. The City Palace sits on the plain below the hills. The palace is located where the royal hunting lodge used to sit. Every time you think you have come to the end of the palace, you go through a door and there are more rooms. It is huge.

Many of the buildings in the City Palace are stuccoed a pinkish/salmon color. This color stucco is on many of the monuments and temples in Jaipur besides the City Palace. Because of this Jaipur is called the Pink City.

The uniform of the people who work at the City Palace.

The City Palace is laid out on a grid pattern with palaces, pavilions, gardens, and temples, along with lots of small doors and cubby holes.

Look at all the work on the arches.

There the pink color is. The pink color is in honor of Prince Edward who later became the King of England. I wonder why they chose pink for him?

Don’t you just love the workmanship? You see elements of Islamic, Rajput, and European influences.

Sean and I are in a doorway. There are 4 in this courtyard. The next series of photos show some of the detail in each archway. There are four small gates, known as Ridhi Sidhi Pol, that represent the Hindu gods.

This gate is dedicated to Shiva and Parvati

This gate is dedicated to Ganesh

The peacock is the symbol of India. We see them everywhere running wild in Jaipur.

A Christmas tree at the City Palace.

Check the pigeons out. There are thousands upon thousands of pigeons in India. I wonder how they got here? All the pigeons in America came from pigeons brought over by British settlers. We call them pigeons but they are not actually pigeons, these like the ones in America are rock doves. There were pigeons in America, but they were driven to extinction by settlers in America.

This urn is one of two of the largest silver objects in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. The second object is an urn across from this one.

You see that white building in the back. There is music coming from there. Some street musicians are playing in a room up there. Does that make them room musicians?  Anyway, I went up and joined them.

It was fun, and I didn’t have to sing. Jim and Sean would not join! Ah guys, you only live once! Don’t you know!

The City Palace is filled with museums and exhibits. They do not allow any photography in them so you won’t see most of what we did.

Across the street from the City Palace is the Observatory, the Jantar Mantar. In it there is an awesome collection of astronomical instruments. It was built between 1727 and 1734 by a Rajput King who must have been a very good astronomer. I was impressed and bought a book about the site. I plan on weaving pieces of what I learned at the site into the astronomy part of the textbook I am working on right now. The King who built this built 5 of these across India. (I am reading and re-posting these articles two years later, and I did not do this because it is too hard to find the information about this site outside of India.)

The name Jantar Mantar means calculation instruments.

The observatory has 14 geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars’ location as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the distance of stars. There is even an instrument that predicts the arrival time of monsoons.

These instruments are huge. You cannot climb on them even though they have stairs. I know because I got yelled at for doing it.

We are in front of this sundial.

The astrological signs are represented too. 

The sundial

Cool hunh?

Next stop, a drive up a steep road to the Nahargarh Fort, also called the Tiger Fort.

In front of the fort we had some yummy street food. It is crunchy, a little spicy (I have come to the conclusion it is not spice I dislike, it is jalapeños), and has lime squeezed over the top.

The Nahargarh Fort overlooks Jaipur.

These walls go across about 11 kilometers of the hillside.

We thought it was an amphitheater, but it turned out to be a place to collect water.

 There is a lot of work going on at the fort, with more of a manual labor component and less mechanized than you see in the US.

Check out the bamboo scaffolding. I had not noticed it before, but Jim said this is what they use in Delhi too. He has seen people standing on it working. His comment was that you would need really strong feet to work on this.

Mahargarh_fort_palace_2.JPG

Built mainly in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur, the fort was constructed on the summit of the ridge above the city as a place of retreat. Walls extended over the surrounding hills, forming fortifications that connected this fort to Jaigarh, which we will visit tomorrow. During the Indian Mutiny of 1857, the Europeans of the region were moved to Nahargarh fort by the king of Jaipur for their protection.

 There are 9 separate squares in the palace all identical. The king had 9 wives and they all needed to be housed separately. My question is, doesn’t the king need any alone time?

This guide had us laughing so hard. He came up me and pointed off the top roof of the palace and said, “Jaipur”. He continued to follow me all around the roof, which was huge, pointing off the roof saying again and again, “Jaipur.” A couple of times he stopped to tell me water and say monkey and bite his finger when he said it. I thought it was so strange. I think those were the only English words he knew. Jim and Sean stopped walking with me to see what would happen. I started laughing so hard.

The fort was built on a very large hill so that Jaipur surrounded it, so yeah, Jaipur surrounds it. He had a guide badge that showed someone other than him on the badge. Finally I told Jim it was going to cost us a bit to get rid of him. The guides here wanted money if they gave you any information, even of you didn’t ask for it. Jim gave him 20 rupees and the guy said no 50. Jim said, “But you didn’t do anything.” The guy said, “50.” Jim said, “If I give you 40 will you leave us alone?” And the guide nodded yes. It was really quite funny. If only the “guide” spoke as well as he understood that interchange.

Look at that guy with his bare feet.

We came upon these workers and they hopped right up from a coffee break and started to work. They asked us if we wanted photos and then wanted money for it. The amount they wanted was 20 rupees, basically 30 cents. 

The process they were using to make all this was archaic.

Here is more of the wall. Look how steep the hill is along the edges. It is an impressive feat of engineering.

Kite flying is very popular in Jaipur. We came upon someone flying a kite on the wall. They let Sean fly their kite.

It was not possible to get the kite and Sean in the same photo.

Along the wall back to the fort. I got a little ahead of the guys.

I turned a corner and there was a monkey! I called to Sean, and he caught up with me.

Sean and I approached the monkey to get the much desired close up

Guess what? Monkeys don’t like that. The first thing Jim knew, Sean was running the other way and I was backing up slowly and then running. That monkey came at me with his canines, big, BIG, big canines, bared. My knees didn’t stop shaking for ages. There was a guy there, a local, who threw rocks at it, maybe even an employee, to get it to leave. We laughed until we cried. And Sean and I have a new respect for monkeys. And we no longer like monkeys. Oh no, not a bit! In fact I am now officially afraid of monkeys and so is Sean. Did I mention how big and sharp their teeth are!!

I am not sure if these were peacocks with no tail feathers or peahens who aren’t brown, but they are one or the other running wild.

Stamp_art_1.JPG

Then we went shopping and bought some stamp art. This is art that is done painted onto old manuscript paper. It is something Jaipur is known for. We always like to buy a art on our travels.

Stamp_art_Jaipur_2.JPG

This is the back of the painting.

Cooking_Ikaki_niwas.JPG

The homestay, Ikaki Niwas, let me come into the kitchen for a cooking demonstration. You know I was all over that. This is one of the people who works here chopping onions faster than I have ever seen anyone do it.

Here is Davika. She is one of the owners and the mistress of the kitchen. I had bought some wonderful spices in Dubai and India. She went over them telling me how to use each of them. We ate here all 3 nights. It was so good that we didn’t bother looking for somewhere else to eat.

Indian_kitchen_1.JPG

Indian kitchen (the 4 I have been in) have all been set up similarly to each other and different from the ways ours are set up in the US. They have a very nice toaster/convection oven like this one, instead of a built in oven.

Indian_oven_2.JPG

3 of the 4 have had microwave ovens

All have had a portable stove similar to this one. I asked Davika about it, and she told me her husband had told her how different American kitchens were from Indian ones, so I am going to assume the 4 Indian kitchens I have been in are standard.

Almost there, making curried papardum. I will have to try my new recipe on any who are interested when I get home.

Most Indian homes have a shrine in them. Here is the shrine at the Ikaki Niwas Homestay.

Check out yesterdays post here.





Delhi Day 14, One of Those Special Days Life Tosses at You Every Now and Then

Saree

The girls in our placement wanted to put bindis on. It just didn’t feel right, I took it off shortly after, little did I know.

This is Mrs. Peters. She is the teacher Jim and Alecia have been working with. They have had the kids working on these Christmas decoration this week. Mrs. Peters is Christian.

One last morning assembly

Here are most of the kids I worked with in a group goodbye.

These are a great group of kids. I was lucky to have Anil. He was very helpful and really made my two weeks more meaningful. His English is good, which matters, if you know as little Hindi as I do, and I know the most of our entire group. He is a good teacher working with a group of kids who span a broad spectrum of academic abilities, which is not easy to teach. The kids are holding the going away card they made for me.

I bought a saree. Sarees are not easy for the uninitiated to put on. Indian women put on their own saree. I am going to need so much more practice. Bella showed me how to put it on, but one time was not enough. I asked the ladies in my conversation class (my name for it) to teach me how to put one on, and asked if they would do it in English. There was some English and Hindu, this turned into a party. I am not one to cry, but it makes me tear up just to think about those few hours with those ladies. They were so warm and wonderful.

That is the petticoat and the top. I went to the tailor and had both made. These two items were easy to put on, now for the hard part.

There is so much material in the actual saree, that is what makes it difficult to put on. So much… Bahut bahut…

There are 7 safety pins holding it up so everything stays where it should.

The person working so hard on the saree is Pinky. Pinky is very warm and generous. I have a saying, “She who is generous is lucky.” I hope Pinky is very lucky in her life.

There I am with a bindi. The room was full of women, talking in Hindi and English, going in and out, just enjoying ourselves, laughing and talking. You are not seeing all the commotion because Alecia was taking pictures of my transformation, per my request.

Next the ladies did my makeup. Here Mrs. Peters is making the bindi larger. I came to a realization at a certain point today. When I first signed up for Cross Cultural Solutions I really did not know what to expect. Basically they told me what to do to be able to volunteer for them in Delhi, but what would happen when I got there? I didn’t know, and honestly neither did Cross Cultural Solutions, CCS. They had a rough idea, but they didn’t know me at all.

CCS matched our family to our assignment based on our abilities. I have a strong background in education. This affected my entire family’s placement. We all loved our assignments. They did a great job of matching us to it. Once at the placement though, it was up to us to create our own experience. The ladies group for instance. I was the first volunteer to work with them ever. I wanted to stay longer after the kids left and do more, so Anil asked if I would like to work with them. The first couple of days it was writing assignments, but I realized they needed to learn more conversational skills. That is how the conversational class came to be. Anil told me he really likes how I ran the class. After finishing this I am going to write lessons plans for Alecia and an overview for Jaggie at Cross Cultural Solutions so he can continue having a volunteer work with the ladies after Alecia leaves. Yes it is all about the experience you yourself create, with the help of Cross Cultural Solutions, but they can’t do it for you.

The women decided to make me up as if I were an Indian bride. Here Rajkumani puts a necklace on. At this point I thought she was lending it to me for the occasion.

After two weeks in India, I can see why some people lose their heart to this country.

Alecia coaxed a smile out of Rajkumani. Alecia can coax a smile out of anyone. We were lucky she was in our placement with us.

The next thing I knew someone put more jewelry on my ankles and a bracelet on my wrist. At this point I started trying to get the attention of the better English speakers to make sure no one was buying this for me.

Rajkumani and Pinky are trying to fix me up more. I am so sorry ladies, it is nothing 20 years won’t cure. Lol. The truth is I wouldn’t give up one single day if it meant I couldn’t have this one!

Pinky (there are 2 Pinkys), Alecia, and Babita, the ladies wanted to know if Alecia had a saree. She is going to buy one now. They asked me how much I paid for my saree. They told me I paid too much that I should have bargained better. I told them I was bad at bargaining. They gave me a lesson in bargaining and told Alecia she should go with them to buy a saree so she doesn’t pay too much for her saree.

 Here we are as a group

Notice the bracelets, called bangles. Every time I move my arms the jingle a pleasant jingle. Pinky who is directly to my left gave me these. She was married 7 months ago and told me she had been given more than she needed and that she wanted me to have them as a gift. We had to squeeze my wrists and knuckles tightly to get these on. The first few broke because of the size of my wrists, but Pinky would not give up.

I am just overwhelmed by the generosity of each and very one of these women, both Pinkys, Rajkumani, Gita, and Babita have a special place in my heart.

I had asked about bringing Indian sweets and cookies to the school to celebrate our last day (we are going back on the 31st to say a final goodbye actually, since we fly out of Delhi, so not quite last 😉 We were told we were the first people to ever bring sweets for the adults. We all just hung out and chatted. Talked about life. The kind of this girls do. You know, spent time on the real reason for learning a language.

We were told there had been some cancellations to the Cross Cultural Solutions India Program because people were worried about their safety. There was not one single time in the entire time we have been here that I have felt in danger. Other than the crazy driving, this is the safest I have felt in a huge city. Do bad things happen in Delhi? Sure they do, but bad things happen in New York, Paris, and London too. As you can tell I am a fan of CCS India, Delhi, and the Indian people I have met. If you had experienced the last two weeks that I did, you would be too.

Check out yesterdays post here.





Delhi, India, Day 13

Delhi

I did not think my placement could get any better but it did. I am going to be sad to leave, and I will miss all the people there. We leave tomorrow for Jaipur.

…but first, the carrots here are redder than those we get in the States. I have been meaning to tell you this for a while. See them in the middle of the vegetables. Everywhere you go there are vegetable sellers, not fast food shops, and not people selling junk food. My guess is if you were to conduct a study comparing people in India to people in the US you would find our population to be just as malnourished as theirs only from a different type of malnourishment. I think the people in the US would have more malnourishment in the form of missing micronutrients in their diet (those you can only get from plants) and more additives from foods in their bodies (like those that do not occur in nature and are created in a lab somewhere). LOL, give me a minute as I get off my soap box and get on to what you really want to read about. I just cannot turn my science brain off. You would never believe the amount of things I keep to myself and do not bore you with!

As we were walking to our placement, one of the girls from our noon group invited us into her house to look at photos and to see her house! I love it here!

Pinky, Alecia, and Sean in Pinky’s house

Delhi, India, Day 13: Pinky’s house

Blair, Alecia, and Pinky looking at photos, Alecia is here for 2 more weeks after we leave. I am jealous of you Alecia. Pinky’s entire family lives in a one room house. Her grandparents get the bed. There is no indoor plumbing or bathroom. We have seen men showering with a hose in the middle of the walkway several times. There is a simple kitchen area, although many people cook outside over fire rings/pits. The entire studio apartment is about 11 by 15. Eight to ten people live in it.

The second day I worked with Pinky she leaned over and whispered to me, “You are lovely and very smart.” No wonder I love her so much 🙂 One thing I haven’t mentioned is what it is like to be in a culture that respects age. The Indian culture puts a high premium on wisdom, with age comes wisdom, but you do become less beautiful. In the US it feels as if we respect beauty over age or wisdom. Here it feels that is reversed. Don’t get me wrong, beauty matters here, but I do not think it is respected on the level wisdom is, and therefore older people are more respected and thought to be beautiful not despite our wrinkles but because of them.

Delhi, India, Day 13: Singing at the school

The teacher Jim and Alecia have been working with is Christian, Mrs. Peters. She has been trying to get me to teach the children I am working with the song Go Tell It On The Mountain. The problem is none of the people in our group are religious, so none of us knew the song. Mrs. Peters finally taught me the song, so I could sing it to them. Still the kids would rather have me sing Jingle Bells or We Wish You a Merry Christmas.

Delhi, India, Day 13: Jingle Bells
Delhi, India, Day 13: Reviewing for a test

Jim helped these two boys prep for their general knowledge test. It is a big test they have on Friday this week.

Delhi, India, Day 13: The kids get a free meal every day

Lunch time for the little ones at Vidya.

We had one more lady show up today. Her name was Babita. She goes to JNU, the university Dr. Ray taught at. She is studying English and hopes to become an interpreter working at the embassy. She told us she came to our group because she heard the English we were speaking in it was good.

Delhi, India, Day 13: One of the two women named Pinky.

Here is one of the women from the ladies group, also named Pinky. I asked how you can tell a Hindu woman is married. You can tell by the bangles on her wrist, the bindi (the dot on her forehead), and the sindoor (the line that starts at her hairline and goes along her scalp). There is no significance to the color of the bindi or the sindoor. The woman behind the fence watches us every day but never joins in.

I started today’s lesson with something that totally fizzled, but then had the good sense to show them the photo of Minachshee and Sandeep on Diwali (pronounced Duvalee). I told my students how I had celebrated Diwali, then we went around the circle with all of them telling us about their Diwali. When that ended, I asked each of them who was their favorite Hindu God and why. Most of the ladies liked Lord Shiva the best, but one liked Sai Baba best and one liked Durga Mata.

Delhi, India, Day 13: Selling honey

The boy in the middle climbed a tree and got all this honey out of a bee hive in the tree. I felt sorry for the bees wandering around on the ground.

Delhi, India, Day 13: Ludo

The Cross Cultural Solutions staff like to play this game called Ludo.

Those who are not playing Ludo are watching day 2 of a 5 day cricket match between South Africa and India.

The girls and I went out for a while. I saw this place all lit up, found a latched gate, opened it with some trouble, and then went in. The girls were a little nervous, so we left as soon as I took the photo.

We had the craziest drive back ever. Patrice and I drove back with the music blaring, crazily zipping in and out of traffic. Even speeding against traffic! It was a bit insane.

Sean got sick today. Jim has been sick this week as well. In fact of our group of 7, only two of us have not been sick. Lucky me!

Check out yesterdays blog post here.





Delhi, India, day 12

Woman

It was another great and rewarding day in Delhi and at our placement. I started my day blogging then did yoga. After that we rushed out to our placement.

These are eggplant. To get the skin off the cook holds them over a flame until they look like this. Doing this gave the eggplant a smokey taste. Unfortunately for me the cooks made the eggplant dish so spicy I couldn’t eat much of it.

walking_out_slum_delhi_21

It is cold in Delhi. Not Mammoth Lakes cold, just San Diego cold. Hey Carol Solorio do you see what I am wearing!

On the way through the slum today I saw this fellow selling pasta. This is the first time I have seen him here. He rides his bike around to different areas selling his inventory.

This man came and asked me if I would take a photo of his mother. I did and then showed it to her. They both laughed when they saw themselves on my camera.

Check out that load of candy.

Like I told you, the dogs are everywhere.

The kids were exercising when we arrived. I joined in when they started to play Simon Says. The kids all started to laugh because I was so bad at it.

It occurred to me that we should have a conversational hour instead of working on isolated skills. (I made worksheets for them to work on the skills.) I would ask a question, often to Alecia so that we could mimic the correct asking and answering, then the ladies were expected to ask and answer the questions. It was super fun. Here I am with Pinky and Pinky, they have the same name. Pinky on the right is 18 and wants to be a teacher. Pinky on the left is 26 and is recently married. Her mother-in-law suggested she come and take the class. Everyday we have had one more student join so that now we have 5 ladies coming.

Here we all are. I will get everyone’s name tomorrow. The girl next to Pinky is from Thailand. She is of Indian descent and is living with her aunt. She speaks Thai and is learning Hindi and English at the same time. Then there is Alecia, who is with Cross Cultural Solutions as I am. Between us is a 36 year old lady with three sons who has decided she wants to learn to speak English. I told her she should tell her sons they can all only speak English at dinner.

On the left is Mrs. Peters and on the right is lady who works at the school. She joined in a bit today. Her English was pretty good.

The bigger of the two girls takes care of her little sister and two more I. Between. She is so sweet, they call her little Mama.

We love these kids! I wish you could all be here with me. If you have ever thought of doing something like this, come with us the next time!!!!

A man came walking by asking for money. He had this monkey with him, so we give him 2 rupees.

I am going to leave a piece of my heart here.

Check out yesterdays blog here.





Delhi, India, Day 11

India

We have settled into a routine with our placements. I can see how I could make a difference for some of these students. Two weeks just isn’t enough time. I am the main photographer for our group at our placement. I work with the older kids and have a little more time to myself because the students are expected to work independently when given a task. That is why there are so few photos of me at school.

The students take these sentence pairs and make compound sentences with them. The only thing unusual about this problem set is that I am in a country working with second and third graders, and English is not their native language, Well that and some of the references. The bottom sentence refers to a Bollywood movie and an actor from it. Pittu is an active game.

After we went to our placement, I did yoga, then we went to hear a talk. Some of the girls went out to dinner but our family stayed at the flat. Our meals are all cooked at the office for us. The food has been superb. I have been inspired to come home and try making more varied Indian dishes. The food and spices are mixed up more than I do when it am home. I also like the hot food here more. I think it might just be that I don’t like jalapeños, and not that I don’t like spicy food, although I do not like it if it is too spicy.

This is a worksheet I made. Yesterday I made the mistake of creating and bringing a worksheet written in cursive. I hate writing using printing. Yikes I left the answer choices off # 7! I will have to fix that.

Have I remembered to mention that they drive on the opposite side of the road in India. The driving here is really crazy, I mean really, really, very truely insane. Add the whole opposite thing in, and I could not drive in India.

It is impossible to catch how crazy it is on a still photo. When asked about the traffic we were told by a native Indian, that the Indian people survive more by accident than by design.

Now notes from today’s talk: Dr. A. K. Ray, talked about the political history of India. Before retiring he was a professor at Jawaharlal Nehru University, JNU. All statements below unless indicated are from Dr. Ray.

1 in every 6 people on the planet is Indian. India is 1/3 the size of the United States. India has 3 times the people as the US, which makes it 9 times more densely populated than the US.

When you look at the Indian civilization you are looking at a civilization that is 10,000 years old. Hinduism began about 8,000 years ago, and at that time they stopped eating beef. In case you did not know, Hindus do not eat beef. Most eat milk products though.

Not eating beef might seem trivial to you, but it is important when looking at something unfamiliar that you do not dismiss or trivialize the unfamiliar. 86% of Hindus do not eat beef. When you look at the health of the people and the cows you would expect them to eat beef. This is a very malnourished society. It is estimated 80% of the people in India are malnourished. This is an Indian phenomenon that leads to a high rate of death, and the cows are just as bad off. So why don’t people eat those cows? There was a phase in Hindu society when they ate beef. The Hindu society has been an agrarian society for millennia. Within that everything depends on the cow. Since the cow provides everything, plowing, food in the form of milk, and manure, it makes more sense to protect the cow than to slaughter the cow. This has led to a deification of the cow. This deification of the cow led to cows being protected from slaughter for food consumption. (My thoughts here: The Indian people do not seem to have a clear separation between the value of human life and the value of life for other animals, as is seen by most in the US. Hindus seem to just plain old value life. If you think about it, it is much more rational to value life in and of itself, than it is to have arbitrary separations and hierarchies within animal groups as to whose lives have more value.)

All Hindu Gods and Goddesses are products of myths. But these are myths that have been believed and a part of society for 8,000 years. Actually all religions are based on myths. It is all a matter of faith, and the faith of the Hindus is so old that it has become the fabric of history for the Hindu people.

As an example of this: Monkeys cannot be killed in India, because the monkey god, Hanuman, is said to have helped Lord Rama. For the tale you can go to this site, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanuman. Today in India, monkeys get into everything, even government buildings where they have been known to destroy documents, but you cannot do anything about it because the monkey is revered.

Irrational? Yes. But it is imbedded in society. The past is deeply imbedded in the present. When Americans say forget about the past and focus on the present, Indians cannot. This is very important to understand when understanding the Indian people. For 10,000 years the Indian society has survived by being rational, even if we think it is irrational. It is our lack of understanding the Indian people and their shared history that creates this misperception.

Lifestyles here are imbedded. 

There is a global fault line at Istanbul. One side is an ancient civilization, the east side including Africa, and one side is newer. In these ancient civilizations, traditions have been around a long time and die hard.

The colors on the map of India show how different Indian society is. It is divided by language, tribe, caste, and race. All of these things divide. Even Hindus are divided by language and caste. 78% of Indians are Hindus. There are more caste riots within the Hindu group than there are riots between the different religions.

India has people of many faiths and has had a long history of tolerance towards all faiths.

St. Thomas, one of the original disciples of Christ visited India. There is a population of 200,000 Jews in Kerala who can trace their roots back to Soloman.

The Zororastrians are Parsis. The Parsis originally came to India to escape the Islamic invasion in Persia (modern day Iran). The Parsis came to India because India had a reputation for accepting asylum seekers.

They are followers of Zarathushtra who lived 3000 years before Christ. Zarathushtra preached monotheism in the name of Ahurmazda who has no form shape, beginning or end. He, however, acknowledged archangels who protected humanity through the sacred elements. Parsis led a peaceful and happy life in their native land, and Zoroastrianism was quite popular in parts of Asia and Europe. But with the arrival of Islam in the 7th and 8th centuries, religious zealots invaded Persia and forcible conversions (or death) took place on a large scale. People fled to different lands. Some came to India by sea, carrying the sacred fire with them. Tradition declares that the flames were collected from potters, goldsmiths, brick makers, shepherds etc, sixteen vocations undertaken by ancient Parsis.

When the first immigrants landed on the swampy port of Navsari (Gujarat) and requested  shelter and patronage of the local ruler, he sent them a bowl of milk full to the brim, indicating that though they were welcome, his land was full of inhabitants. The Parsi high Priest asked for some sugar and put it in the bowl and sent it back. The milk did not overflow and the sugar added to the taste, suggesting there would be benefits from a merger of immigrants with the existing inhabitants, and there would be eternal help to the ruler from the refugee community. The ruler was impressed. India became a second homeland to newcomers like Jews, Syrian Christians, Central Asian and African communities. All were free to follow their own faith and take up different pursuits.

The two paragraphs above are from, http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/people/zoroastrians.htm, because I wanted to get the history of this just right. My notes were fuzzy on it.

When the British left, the Indian people decided to eliminate English from schools, but they could not agree what to replace it with.

13% of Hindus are still untouchables today, but you cannot discriminate against them or you face jail time. Gandhi and another man named, Ambedkar, started converting the untouchables to Buddhism from Hinduism. Once they were Buddhists they were no longer untouchable, because Buddhists don’t have the caste system. This group of recent converts from Hinduism to Buddhism is called neo-Buddhists.

Another problem with the caste system is that the 4 principle castes led to subcastes. This created tensions within each caste group.

All the tensions, all the differences. What unites the Indian people is their civilization and cultural unity.

I will write up the last 1/2 of the lecture later today. GTG 🙂

Check out yesterdays post here and here.





Manoran Singh, on Education, Social Differences, and Arranged Marriages, post 2 of 2

Social differences

Manoran Singh, on Education, Social Differences, and Arranged Marriages, post 2 of 2

The morning starts with students reciting the Indian National Anthem

The rest of Dr. Singh’s talk and what we did today

If there is one thing Westerners find fascinating about India, it has to be arranged marriages. Dr. Singh explained what that means in the India of today.

The Marriage System in India

There are three major marriage laws in India all based on religious affiliation. When you marry or divorce you are under the jurisdiction of the Hindu, Islamic, or Buddhist marriage laws.

Many Indian people, both in the United States and outside of it have arranged marriages. It is more of an arranged introduction these days. Rishi, the 22 year old fellow I am working with at my placement said the same thing. I asked him if his parents were going to arrange a marriage for him. He said not unless he was still single in his mid 30’s, and then they most likely would start making suggestions to him about girls they knew of. I asked if his parent’s marriage was arranged and he said sort of. That it was the modern type of arranged marriage, where two people are introduced who the parents think would make a good match.

This is how it works

1.) Parents do some homework to find someone who will be a good match for their child and the entire family. Families in India often live together or at least close to each other. It is important that anyone new coming into the family meshes well with the fabric that makes that family. The feeling in India is that young people do not have good enough judgement yet to choose someone who will work long term as a good life partner.

2.) Next parents arrange an introduction, but the couple has the final say.

3.) Divorce is very uncommon in India. People have the attitude that they have to make the marriage work. This has a big effect on the importance of choosing the right partner and getting help making the right choice.

4.) If there are any problems the entire family will help to make the marriage work.

There are exceptions to this. The two groups you see the most exceptions with are the highest and the lowest classes. The group who is most affected by these attitudes about divorce and marriage is the middle class.

Both these posts are my notes from Dr. Singh’s talk. These are not my original thoughts or observations.

Now for our day.

We started our week returning to our placement. Sean commented multiple times Saturday and Sunday that he couldn’t wait to go back. He is really going to miss those kids when we leave.

Everybody loves suit guy.

At 12 all the little kids get a meal of dal.

This is in a classroom. This dog wandered in to it and went to sleep.

Dogs are everywhere in India, puppies, lactating females, male dogs fighting, and hanging out too. They are in the streets, wandering into buildings, you name it, they are everywhere. We have seen a few hit too, the driving is really crazy here, and dogs run right into the streets. We have seen some dogs with owners, but not most. At first I felt sorry for the dogs, but after observing the situation I came to a new appreciation and understanding of what I was observing. I have never seen anyone here be mean to a dog. In fact they are quite nice, warm, and tolerant of the dogs. If a dog wanders into a place, it is as if they have the right to be there. No one says anything. If a gate or a door is open and a dog wanders in, no one does anything about it. Often the dog is not even acknowledged. If they are acknowledged it is with kindness. I came to understand that these dogs are free. They have free will. I have heard that this is the same situation with monkeys, which I will get to in tomorrow’s post. These dogs are really and truly free and enmeshed within the fabric of the society and areas they live in. Their freedom is not always perfect, some have mange, some look malnourished, and some wander in to the street. Some people would argue that freedom at any price is still worth the price.

Sean’s group is waiting for lunch.

We went to the sweet shop. You were right Sandeep, they did let Sean and me taste things! We had so much fun here.

Sweet shop in Hindi is Mithai ki Dukaan

Aren’t they beautiful?

Look how beautifully he is wrapping our chocolate. I just went down one of the rows and got 1 of everything.

A country that loves dogs and sweets as much as I do. I might never come home.

Marigolds are everywhere in India. They are used for religious blessings and offerings.

I am counting on you Denise Perpall to help me figure out how to make this drink. It is a salted fresh lime soda, it is non-alcoholic, and is both sweet and salty, but not too sweet or salty.

This sign is outside establishments that serve alcohol in Delhi.

I spent hours tonight booking the next leg of our journey. We are not extending our volunteering, we are getting on the road and seeing some of India instead. It took some work to get it all planned because we put it off. I was not sure what we were going to do in the end, but Jim wants to see some of India. He is afraid we might not get back here again and he wants to see more than just Delhi. I am not so sure though, Sean and I love India. Because we put it off, we have to take the bus for part of it. We could hire a car, and that is not very expensive, but the buses are supposedly more comfortable. We will try the first leg by bus and see what we think. You are all in for a treat though, because you will also see more of India this way.

I also had to write a worksheet for my students today. Last Friday I had a great day working with the older grade school students, and I was asked to stay until 1 to work with the high school aged girls who are getting ready for a big test. Today was so rewarding. I worked with the grade school students on answering what, why questions. For example, “What is your favorite food? Why is it your favorite?” They did great on the first question, but it became more complicated when they had to add the because part from the 2nd question to their answer. Then I worked with the older girls on pronouns, but they were writing their own sentences, and there was so much going on with them, that I realized they couldn’t get a good handle on pronouns. There was too much to keep track of, so worksheets for all! I am not necessarily a fan of worksheets, but sometimes they are the best solution.

Check out part of of today’s blog here.





Manoran Singh, on Education, Social Differences, and Arranged Marriages

India

We have guest speakers most of this week. I will take notes and share what I learn about India with you. We are really loving our time in India. The people here are warm and welcoming. The food is fantastic. The culture is old, which satisfies the history buff in me. We are having a great time.

Dr. Singh and Jim

Dr. Manoran Jan Singh, Bella’s husband (the woman who runs Cross Cultural Solutions India), is a founding member of Cross Cultural Solutions India, and a psychologist with a focus in the field of emotional and behavior problems. At the time Dr. Singh works in New Jersey, USA, with Catholic Charities helping children within that system.  The views below, unless otherwise stated are those of Dr. Singh.

Education System in India

One of the challenges faced by the Indian education system is the diversity. It is similar to how our bilingual population in the US sometimes feels, only it is compounded by the sheer number of languages spoken in India. Language gives people a feeling of identity. (I can identify with this. I will never forget the time we were at the top of the Eiffel Tower, and Sean spoke to me in English with his American accent, and a woman turned to me and also spoke English with an American accent. She said, “Oh you speak like we do. I haven’t heard that in a week.” She just wanted to talk to us for a little while. She said it helped with her homesickness. This was even though we had never met before or since and might not have had anything else in common besides language and a place of origin.)

In India there are 16 to 17 different lettering systems and different scripts. Each region has its own language and style of writing letters.

Here is a link to a site that compares the most common Indian language alphabets. It is really interesting. http://www.ukindia.com/zalph.htm

This is a photo of the Indian Rupee. Each line of text is a different language and lettering system stating the value of the currency. On the other side, the currency value is given in English and Hindu.

The Indian school system has to deal with this at the same time it must be sensitive to its different population groups. Here is what they do. Either Hindi or English must be your 2nd language, a student’s first language can be that of their state. So for a child living in Punjab Province, their first language is Punjabi and their second language will be either English or Hindi. But in 9th grade, all books are in English.

A side note that I learned last night, the largest ethnic Indian group in the United States is Gujarati.

Religion

Christianity was in India in 50 A.D. India has the 2nd largest Muslim population in the world after Indonesia. Buddhism started in India. India is also the birthplace of Jainism, Sikhism, and Hinduism. India is a secular country with many religions living in harmony.

India and Change

I learned a new term tonight (you know I love it when that happens!), cultural baggage.

India has had its civilization for more than 5,000 years. Countries that have been in existence for a long time have cultural baggage. The United States is a new country, as it is today at least, because we have marginalized the Native American population (this is my input here not Dr. Singh’s). Because of our lack of cultural baggage, the US can switch and make changes more facily than a country like India.

The people of India are divided by class, religion, and caste. The word caste is pronounced like cast.

How the caste system came into existence.

5,000 to 4,000 years ago the there was a philosopher names Manu. Manu thought the best functioning and most cohesive societies were divided into groups based on skill level. He believed these groups should be fluid, so that ability and not birth determines a person’s place within the caste system. He divided people into four groups. He called his system, “Each to his own ability.”

1. The Brahmans: The Brahmans were the pundits, the religious men, and the scholars.

2. The Kshatriya: The Kshatriya are the warriors, the protectors. This is the group the king usually comes from, although he can come from the Brahmans.

3. The Vaishyas: The Vaishyas are the workers. They are the farmers, shopkeepers, engineers, etc

4. The Shudras: For these three classes to be able to do their work there needs to be a class to do the menial jobs. These are the people without the ability to work within the other 3 castes. The Shudras are this group that are the servants to the other groups. This is the group that became the Untouchables.

The problem with this system is that fathers expect their sons to follow in their own footsteps. Manu didn’t think about inheritance. He wanted it to be fluid as to capability, but instead family groups became compartmentalized. He overlooked the political and peoples’s will to educate and give opportunities to the lower classes. The caste system led to prejudice. A person’s last name tells what caste they are in.

Poor people were less healthy and more poorly educated because of their circumstances. It is similar to what has happened to the Native Americans and African Americans in the US. These groups have fewer resources, are less healthy, have worse clothes, and less education than people in the higher castes. Gandhi was instrumental in getting rid of the caste system, at least in big cities. It still exists today in rural areas. Between 1847 and 1949 the Indian government had to make laws establishing quotas to give jobs to the Shudras in the fields of education, medicine, and government work. This has led to tensions, similar to those we have around Affirmative Action.

Another problem is that the Brahmans usurped religion and power from the king by making religious practices more and more complicated as a type of job security. This makes it harder to get into that level and makes the entire system less fluid.

Check out yesterdays blog here.





Traveling and Homeschooling from India

Traveling and Homeschooling, Blair Lee, worldschooling, SEA Homeschoolers

We had a low key day on Sunday, so I wrote about traveling and homeschooling for the Sunday post. We did eat at a really nice restaurant, the Clay Oven in Green Park. If you visit Delhi, I recommend it.

Traveling and Homeschooling Sean learns history at the Taj Mahal

“Don’t you have school now in the US?” This or a variation of this is a question we have been getting often while traveling with a 14 year old in India. People have been very curious about what a school aged child is doing out of school. It is a question that makes sense when you look at the attitude the Indian people have toward education. There is a drive in India to educate all Indian children. This is a culture that values education at a level you do not experience in the United States. At our placement, when they found out I had been a college professor, and that I write science textbooks, the teachers became even more respectful towards me. I have overheard Anil telling people about my background, educators are a big deal here. In addition, the Indian people seem to want a high quality education for all their children, girls and boys, rich and poor. It feels like they want a way up for the whole population, not just pieces of it.

As a side note, I think this is going to lead to tensions in India in the next couple of decades as the country is forced to deal with the low wages paid to many workers. Well educated people have expectations that their education will result in a better life for themselves and their family. Workers in the lower tiers will need better wages to have a better life.

There is a focused goal and a plan to educate the children too. It comes across as a system and a one size fits all approach, something we agitate against in the States. Students learn English, math, science, and computer science at a high level. Much of the learning they do is rote memorization. When I worked with the students this past week, I used the skills I had learned acting as often as those I learned as a teacher. Looking at this through my lens as a homeschooler, I am curious and interested to see if a country can find the jobs needed when so many students focus on the same set of subjects. These are all my opinions and observations, of course, and I have only been here a week. I should get back to the topic at hand. One I know much more about, homeschooling

Traveling and Homeschooling – a mandatory Hindi lesson

I don’t think Indians homeschool. I have yet to meet one, other than the staff at Cross Cultural Solutions (a group of Indians who deal mostly with Americans), who has even heard of homeschooling. You should see the looks on the faces of people when they find out Sean does not go to a traditional school. The administrator of the large Vidya school seemed shocked, truly shocked, that I teach my child at home and not in a school. One question I have never had an Indian person ask me is, “Aren’t you worried about the socialization?” Which is the most common question I get from non-homeschoolers in the US.

So what does it mean from an academic perspective to take your child to India for a month and call it school?

Sean is 14 years old. He has been homeschooled since he was 6. We have done a lot of traveling to all sorts of places during these years: France, Ireland, Costa Rica, Peru, Mexico, Canada, around the US, Ukraine, Austria, Hungary, Dubai and now India. In the beginning, I would have him work on his core subjects when we traveled: language arts, math, science, and history. This didn’t work well, and meant I had to lug textbooks all over the place for a month. Now we are more relaxed about the core subjects. We focus on those when we are home.

This trip we added an extra dimension by volunteering. One reason for choosing Cross Cultural Solutions is that they let Sean volunteer with us. Jim has done a project with Habitat for Humanity and liked it, but Habitat does not let 14 year old kids volunteer for them. Sean is placed with us as a stipulation to his volunteering. Jim and I are there if he needs us. I am right across the courtyard, but he is really under the supervision of the preschool teacher, the crèche teacher, whose program he works with.

Traveling and Homeschooling Sean volunteering

For me school is about learning and academics. I do not worry about socialization in relationship with school. For me that is just not what school is about. If you are thinking that I have a socially awkward or backward son, you would be wrong. We deal with the socialization part in different venues than the academic one, like traveling the world and meeting people all over it, also we have a healthy group of friends back home. All this brings me back to the academic perspective, what is Sean learning during this month of school in India?

Before I give you my perspective, I asked Sean for his about traveling and homeschooling. “Things I have learned this trip are that: Americans have it really, really good, our problems are not that big, it is important to help make the world a better place, the world isn’t going to fix itself, and I really, really like little kids.”

My favorite item on this list is, “the world isn’t going to fix itself.”

Jim and I want to raise a global citizen. One who does not see everything through just one lens, the isolated, nationalistic American one. We view the world as eclectic and interconnected, and we do not think America has all the answers, not even most of them. We want Sean to take what he sees and experiences with him. That is why we do not travel through as fast as we can, staying in hotels that cater to American/European travelers. That’s really it in a nutshell. There are other things he learns as well, a bit of the language, a decent amount about the history of the country we are in, something about the social and political issues of the country.

At the end of the day though, I want him to learn that many people have looked at the same issues and come up with equally viable answers of how to deal with those issues. The answers are not necessarily better or worse, they are just different, money and language are two good examples of this. I want him to learn that there are some issues that need to be addressed, equality for females is one. On this trip, through the volunteerism, we want him to realize that he can make a difference. It is just a small difference, but he is only 14.

Through traveling and homeschooling I realize that Sean is not getting the mainstream education most kids get. There are a whole bunch of kids getting that education, though, so it works for me. We need some people who are able to come at things from a different perspective too.

Check out yesterdays post about visiting the Taj Mahal here.

Learn more about worldschooling.





The Taj Mahal in Agra

taj mahal

I have two recommendations if you ever go to the Taj Mahal. Stay at the Banfi Home Stay and pay for a guide at the Taj Mahal.

We decided to take a camel into the Taj. Here is our camel, his name is Babel.

Sean rode the camel into the Taj.

20,000 workers took 22 years to build it. There are 22 domes on the building behind us. One for each year. The red sandstone came from 40 km away. That was a long distance to carry anything but especially something heavy in the days before the combustion engine.

This line runs through the center of the Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal is symmetrical, and this is the line of symmetry. It is the line at the center of Mumtaz’s burial chamber.

There it is, the Taj Mahal. It was beautiful. It is three different colors over the course of the day. Taj Mahal means crown of the palace.

The water fountains are on the line of symmetry.

The top of the Taj Mahal was made from gold. The British took all the gold and diamonds that were in the Taj Mahal back to Great britain.

We met this poet. His name is Lalit Maugen, his book of poems is Soul and Salvation. It is common for people to hear us talking and want to know where we are from, and to have them want to take a picture with us. Sean had someone stop him today to tell him that America is a paradise. One thing I have learned in our travels is that America could never live up to its hype, no place could.

It is so hard not to keep taking photos. The Taj Mahal was built by the Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz. She was his 3rd wife. His first two wives did not have any children. Mumtaz, which is a nickname meaning “the chosen one of the palace”, gave birth to 14 children. She died while giving birth to either her 14th or 15th child. Our guide gave us both numbers and then got confused when we wanted him to clarify it for us. Of her 14 children, 8 died, only 6 survived. Mumtaz died before the Taj Mahal was finished, so she never saw it. Either she died giving birth to the 14th, and that child survived, or she died giving birth to the 15th and they both died. She died when she was 39 years old. OMG, 14 or 15 children by the time she was 39!

Our guide was a master with what to photo. He would position us in places and take photos.

You have to take your shoes off or cover your shoes with booties to go into the Taj. I was glad for the booties because it was so crowded in the Taj Mahal that people kept stepping on my feet. I would not have wanted to be barefoot.

This is the mosque next to the Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays to non-Muslims. On that day Muslims can go into the Taj and worship.

The Arabic writing around the door is called the Heart of the Koran, in Arabic it is Suriyaseen.

There are no photography allowed inside the burial hall.

There is a honeycomb pattern on the outside of the Taj. The building is marble with precious stone inlaid into the marble.

There are 8 rooms, 4 on either side of the burial chamber. One side of rooms is the men’s side and one side is the women’s side. We are in a room on the women’s side. The honeycomb design of the marble allows men and women to talk to each other without being in the same room.

Photos through the honeycomb.

The Yamuna River is behind the Taj. The workers worked on the stones across the river from the building site. Shah Jahan and Mumtaz planned to build a second Taj Mahal for him across the river. His son said the it wasn’t the Shah’s money to spend like that. He told the Shah the money belonged to the people.

Behind the white tower in the hazy distance is the Red Fort. Shah Jahan’s son imprisoned him there because of all the money the Shah spent building the Taj. The Shah was there until he died. He is buried next to Mumtaz in the burial chamber.

A view from the other side of the Taj.

The building top in the background is where Shah Jahan’s 1st wife is buried.

The white peak in the back on this side is where his 2nd wife is buried. The black peak is a mosque.

Here is a person practicing the art of grinding stones to inlay into settings like the one below.

Here are some photos on the road leaving Agra. Most of the way back we took the Express Way. I actually had to use my Hindi to insist we take the Express Way. The driver wanted to take a “short-cut” like the one we took last night that turned a 2-3 hour drive into 5 & 1/2 hours. There are no photos from the Express Way which is a rather boring drive but much faster.

Don’t you love the old with the new.

Look at how hard some of these fellows have to work. There are 3 carts here.

The 3rd fellow jumped on the motor cycle and away they went.

As we were driving, we saw water buffalo wandering around and swimming in an area where local women were washing their clothes, and then laying them out to dry in the sun.

Monkeys!

Do you see the monkeys running along the top of the building. Monkeys were all over the buildings and streets as we drove out of Agra.

That is a monkey from behind, not a dog.

Good bye Agra!

I wanted to show you how close the cars get with the next couple of photos.

We took a tuk tuk to dinner. Here we are.

Tuk tuks are little 3 wheeled cabs that drive around Delhi zipping in and out of traffic.

Even Jim is taking selfies now.

Check out yesterdays blog here and check out the history of the Taj Mahal here.





Delhi Day 6 and on the road to Agra

Agra

Today we went to our placement, and then we got on the road to Agra, which is where the Taj Mahal is.

I know I have been saying it every day, but Sean loves his volunteering. We will decide by Monday night what we are going to do, because Sean wants stay and volunteer the entire time we are in India. Jim wants to see Rajasthan for 11 days, and I am easy about which we do.

It took about a week for us to settle into our placement. Sean and Hillary are working with the little ones. They both love their assignment. I am working with Rishi from Children’s Hope with the oldest ones. Rishi’s parents are Indian, and he speaks enough Hindi to converse with the kids. I am lucky to be working with someone who has that ability. Even though we are trying to help with their English, a little bit more than a little bit of Hindi comes in handy. Today I was asked if I would stay an hour later to work with an older group of girls, I think high school age, to help with their English. I was working with a couple of girls today helping them memorize some sentences for a test and had great success, so the teacher thought I could help with the older ones too. My experience acting came in handy, because the wording for the answers to test questions are supposed to be the exact answers given by the teacher in class. The test they were studying for was a health test, but because of this rote method, every test in every subject is like memorizing the lines of a play. They have so many children attending the schools that the schools are divided into 2 sessions of 4 or 5 hours each. The students are divided into morning students and afternoon students. I am working with a group of afternoon students in a program that gives tutoring to lower preformance student from the slum area  we are in. The girls I will start working with on Monday attend the morning session.

Jim and Alecia are working with what we would consider kindergarten age students, I think at least. They make a great team.

Jim is making a Christmas tree for a lesson about Christmas his group is working on.

This story is told to you as it was told to me. The boy here in the foreground came for three days this week. He is a servant boy. He is able to be here because his master is away for a few days. When his master comes back he will go back to work, and can no longer come here, until the master goes away again. He is about 12 years old, Anil wasn’t sure exactly. His academic skills are quite a bit below the other students who are younger than him. He has been a servant boy for at least 2 years. His master is a vegetable seller. This boy is a delivery boy for him. He was working on his math skills, and basic Hindi writing skills, but not English. If he doesn’t get the basic math skills a merchant needs, he will always have to be a servant, so Anil has him focus on his math in order to help him in life.

You might have noticed kohl on the children’s eyes, both boys and girls. It is a belief that kohl on the eyes keeps the evil eye from focusing on your child. People will also draw a cross on the back of their neck or behind the ears to keep the evil eye away. Public health officials have been trying to get people to stop this practice, because drawing kohl around the eye is unhealthy. About 1/3 to 1/2  of the kids still have the kohl around their eyes, though.

Sean was told that he looks like a young Bill Clinton. We found the same thing in Europe, Ireland especially, when we travel, Bill Clinton is really thought well of, even now so many years after his Presidency, outside of the US.

The name Sean is an Indian name as well as an Anglo name. Most Hindi names have a meaning. Sean means my pride in Hindi.

Do you see the two little ones with something in their hands. They are eating a Superfood Bar. Before leaving the states I bought a whole bunch of bars at a health food store. I always do when I travel. I love them. Sean won’t eat them. Jim will, but only if there is nothing else. I brought my phone and a bar to the placement yesterday and left them both on a chair. I came over towards the end to get my phone and noticed my bar was gone. Here is the story Hillary and Sean told me. A group of the little ones noticed it, picked it up, and opened it. They broke it up and shared it. Only one of them liked it, but another one of the children, who didn’t like it, ran around gathering up the pieces. This child refused to share with the one child who liked it. Here are the two of them. The one in the pink doesn’t like the bar, but won’t give it up, and the one with the striped hoodie who likes the bar. By the end of our time, the bar had been eaten. Sean said it was funny to watch.

What follows were taken on the road to Agra. I don’t have many photos because of the speed we were traveling . There was a lot to see though. We saw camels, monkeys, deer, cows, and lots of dogs on the roadside. See the monkey on the sign.

There were also plenty of interesting looking people and buildings.

We hired 2 drivers for the 7 of us. It was comfortable and fun. When we were 10 minutes down the road, the driver told us he had to pick up a carpet along the way. He took us the old way (and longer time wise) so he could pick it up. But hey, the road less traveled…

Our driver found this scene really funny. See the cow next to the blue sign saying this is a police station. The driver started laughing saying it was a police cow.

Here is the carpet we picked up. We were all merry. It was funny, really funny. The carpet was much smaller than we expected. Sean and Hillary bought snacks at this stop. They were expensive and stale.

The fellow on the left is our driver.

Then we had a flat tire. A flat tire on the streets in India is dangerous. You just cannot believe the driving/traffic here. The painted lane dividers are for suggested position only, people pay no attention to them, and everyone honks all the time as they get within fractions of an inch away from other vehicles.

This is the driver of the other car with a flash light. I do not envy our driver at all, changing this tire.

This is a Hindu Temple. Oh yeah!

We are staying at the Bansi Home Stay. A home stay is the Indian version of a B&B. I found it on Trip Advisor. It was the #1 home stay in Agra. We found out why too. It was great. Here are some photos of it. The food was great, the beds comfortable (although Indian beds are harder than ours at home), the shower super, and the people who ran it treated us like family! They are going to get a 5 star rating on Trip Advisor from me for sure.

Last night, 4 men were occupying this area. They were celebrating 50 years of friendship.

A statue of Ganesh.

These are from the little courtyard in front of our home stay.

This is the kitchen and the chef. I always check out the kitchens wherever I go. The chef is from the Himalayas.

These were taken on the morning of the 14th while I waited for the others to wake up. While waiting, a family came down. The wife spoke such unaccented English I thought she was visiting from America. She was not, she was a native Indian. The family party had the husband, wife, a 3 year old, and both sets of grandparents. All of the adults spoke English exclusively to the toddler. They told me it is a common practice in well educated families to only speak English to the children until they are 5 or 6, so that English is the child’s first language. Once the child speaks English well, the family will start speaking Hindu to the child. They expect their child to learn a couple other languages along the way as well.

Check out yesterdays blog here and here and check out the next post here.





Delhi Day 5, Exploring Temples, post 2 of 2

Temple

This is the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara Sikh Temple. But first…

We started the temple tour with a mosque. The mosque is the Jama Masjid, it is the largest mosque in India. It was built between 1644 and 1658 during the reign of Shah Jahan. It is in old Delhi. This is a predominantly Muslim area. In Delhi all the religions live peacefully together. There is a cupboard at the mosque which houses a red beard hair of Muhammad’s, his footprints, and his sandals.

The approach to the mosque is through Old Delhi. This must be where people come to get old car parts.

This is from the steps of the mosque looking back down into Old Delhi.

We have to take our shoes off to go into the mosque.

The photos below are from the courtyard at the mosque.

Check out my shirt. I was taking a nap and was woken up and told I was late to leave for the temple tour.  The women had to wear our salwar kameezs, so before napping I took my top off so it wouldn’t wrinkle. On the way in to the mosque Wendy noticed that my shirt was inside out.  Vicky looked at me and told me to leave it that way until we reached the Hindi Temple.

These are Korans.

Blue lines are painted at the mosque when someone dies.

 The actual mosque, Muhammad’s beard hair is in there somewhere. The call to worship from this mosque  sounded quite different from the one we heard at the mosque in Dubai.

This is Lalit who works for CCS. He is showing us how this sundial works. This is in the mosque.

Everywhere we go, people want a photo with Alecia.

Now we are on our way to a Hindi Temple.

The Hindi temple was so large it was impossible to get it all in one photo. It was beautiful inside, but we were not allowed to take pictures.

Hathi at the temple. Hathi means elephant.

The swastika has been used by people of the Hindi faith for millennia. When it is on a location it draws the attention of the Gods to the location.

The Hindu temple we went to is called the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. The temple has shrines to many of the Hindi deities.

The Hindi temple has a shrine to The Lord Buddha.

A photo as we left the Hindi Temple. Next we went to Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, the Sikh Temple.

The Sikh religion was founded in 1469 A.D. in a village near Lahore, Pakistan. Sikhism is another religion whose basic tenet is tolerance to all people. There is no discrimination between the sexes and there is no caste system.

Sean and Jim had to put on head-gear at the Sikh Temple. How is that for equality! It’s about time.

Vicky is Sikh. His head-gear is way cooler than ours.

I am washing my feet to go into the Sikh Temple.

Going into the Sikh Temple.

We finished the tour with a trip to the food kitchen in the Sikh Temple. Both the Sikh Temple and the Hindi Temple had huge areas set aside for pilgrims to sleep and hang out. This is where the Sikhs feed pilgrims and anyone else who needs food. Anyone of any faith can volunteer at the food kitchen. Check out how huge the pots and pans are.

I want one.  Before leaving I bought yet again another cooking dish. When Jim saw what I had bought he said, “Blair, you are a woman with a lot of pots.” LOL.

I want to volunteer here just so I can play with these big pots, seriously. 

A vat of dal

A vat of roti

This is the food hall where the people from the food kitchen eat.

We got back and the CCS cooks were making naan in this. Okay, forget the pot, I want one of these.

Those are the little naan balls.  He is about to throw the one in his hand into the naan cooker.

Then the naan is thrown into the hot naan maker and it sticks to the side. It is peeled off when it is done.

YUM!

Check out part one of today’s blog here and tomorrows here.





Delhi Day 5, post 1 of 2

kids

Here we are dressed and ready for our placements. Delhi is a place full of color similar to our outfits. Now, Sean was not feeling well, but decided to go and sit with the kids. He loves this.

Check out the suit on Sean’s left. That little boy is so cute. The volunteers call him suit guy.

This is Richie with some of the kids. Richie is with a group called Children’s Hope. He seems great. He worked on Corey Booker’s campaign registering first time voters in Newark. He just graduated from college and is figuring it out. He hopes to get a job with CAP, The Center for American Progress. He made a point of telling me the slums of Trenton are not that different from Delhi when it comes to opportunity for the children in them.

Rats it is dark. Here I am with the kids I am working with. Richie and I are working with this group. Sean has moved over to the little kids exclusively.

I taught the girls how to take selfies. They were very curious about my phone/camera today.

Anil is the teacher I am helping.

Here are Jim and Alecia with their group.

Next are a series of photos as Sean and I walked through the slum. We went over to check out the computer lab. Unfortunately the students work in this lab later in the day, too late for us to help there. They really wanted our help there, but it was not to be. CCS want their volunteers to take the time to learn about the culture in the afternoon.

The central square

A communal water pump

The walkways are narrow.

I love this color.

Here is the computer lab. About 20 to 30 people use this lab in the afternoon, taking turns to learn basic office skills on these.

Off the main alleyway there are even more narrow corridors.

Back again, isn’t suit guy adorable.

Alecia is so good with the little ones.

Drying wheat to make roti. After this we went back, had lunch, then I took a nap. Later we went on a temple tour, which I will put in another post later today.

Check out yesterdays blog here and check out tomorrows here.





New Delhi day 4

New Delhi

Every day we are here, we are more inspired. Very few Americans, in my experience, understand tolerance and acceptance with the depth and breadth that most Indians seem to. Because of this there is a focus on social activism that I haven’t experienced much in the States. Sean wants to move here. It is the first vacation where he isn’t talking about how much he misses Jezabel, his pug. I told Sean he cannot move here until he finishes college, and then it is all up to him anyway. He loves working with the kids, especially the littlest ones.

We are loving it, with a caveat, Jim has Delhi Belly. That is what they call the stomach flu most people get in their first week of staying in Delhi. Married to a woman who can eat unwashed leaves and laugh it off, ah the inequities of life! Poor guy, he can now say he threw up in a slum in India.

Sean and I started our day at the Vidya school. I taught a lesson about nutrition, right up my alley. Sean was asked to teach math. His least favorite subject. He was doing okay until he asked the kids to calculate 0/3 which has no solution, oops.

Sean said, “Mom, two of the girls would rather do math than play tag.” I hate to tell him, but that was me as a little girl. How could my son not love math more?

I am really proud of how Sean is handling himself. I am not the only one either. The director of the program, Bella, told him she is very impressed with him. She said that many kids who come with their parents spend their time complaining and comparing India to the US, instead of appreciating India for itself. Sean was invited to participate in a teen project for teens 15 to 18 held in Dharamsala, India in the summer.

Today they are playing freeze tag.

This is what Sean has been waiting for! He loves working with these little ones so much.

Here Jim and I are with Dr. Rekha Chaturvedi. I have met three women in three days who make me feel inspired to think harder about making a difference on this small planet we live on. Rekha told me the crèche program, the program that gets the little ones in, was started by her many years ago. I was told later that Rekha is a very powerful woman in the slums and with community service advocacy in Delhi. The children in the crèche have mothers who work. Before the crèche they were left at home on their own or with slightly older siblings. They were not getting the love, care, or food that they needed. She and other workers went through the slum communities talking to parents and convincing them to leave their little ones at the crèche where they would receive food, attention, and love. Once these children graduate they are not abandoned by the program. There is a network of programs that help them all the way through to graduate studies if they make it that far. Sean wants to spend the entire time we are in Delhi volunteering, not traveling. The two women working in the crèche were both success stories coming out of these programs. At the end of the last two days none of us in our group want to leave and go back to the CCS office. Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to stay later and go help at a computer center for older kids.

Here is a link if you want to learn more about the work Rekha and her colleagues are doing.

http://vidya-india.org/community-delhi.htm

I commented on how welcoming everyone in the slums is. Rheka told me when they started bringing volunteers in, the people asked her what they were doing there. The slum dwellers thought we might be coming in to laugh at them because they have so little. She assured them we were there because we love all people and want to help all of them to have a better life. Yep, that sums me up!

I bought myself a sari in my favorite color. I have my eye on another one too. I just have to see if I can figure out how to put this one on well enough to ever wear it. This is the sari before the piece has been cut off to make the blouse. I also had to have a petticoat made to hold the fold up.

We had to take the sari to a tailor shop. I was given careful instructions about where to go. Do you think I ended up at the right shop? Everyone who knows me knows the answer to that question! Jim has never been able to figure out how someone so good in math and science has no sense of direction. I hope this tailor does a good job. We will know the answer in two days.

Oh my, when did I get all those wrinkles 🙂 it beats the alternative though. The tailor is helping me choose petticoat fabric to match the sari. Look at all the bolts. There are more behind the door at the back.

Here is a little temple to Ganesh beside a tree.

Alecia and I took a yoga class.

Then we went to an open air artisans’ market. This fellow is from Kashmir; his name is Sarfaraz Ashraf. Jim and I now have a family in Kashmir to visit if we ever go there. They live between two lakes. We are now Facebook friends, so if any of you have questions about Kashmir, you can ask them. Seriously.

Check out our posts from yesterday here and here.